• Alex

Sienna Makers Jacket Coat Hack


When I saw this sewing pattern from Closet Case Patterns, I was so excited. I could see there were both jacket and coat variations, so imagine how disappointed I was when I realised that the jacket option I loved (View C) didn't come as a lined coat option. There was only one way forward, and that was to make my own, in case anyone feels the same I thought I'd share my process. I've uploaded a vlog on my YouTube channel if you'd like to find out more, so please pop over and have a look.


In the meantime, I thought this would be a good place to note how I went about hacking this coat.


This is designed to run alongside the instructions from Closet Case Patterns.

Pattern Pieces


Cut or trace all the pieces listed for view C plus pieces F & N and without pieces I and M, ie. C, D, E, G, H, K, L1, L2, N, O, P, U


You will be adding to pieces C, D, E so you can either stick some additional paper onto the pattern pieces or trace off onto a larger piece of paper. 


Using pattern piece A as a reference add extra length onto piece C, extending the lines down.



Do the same with the back piece (B). However, the back piece D includes additional fabric for the vent so draw and a straight line down from this point. The seam of piece (B) is also more boxy than piece D, so it's up to you at this point you can either follow the shape of piece B or D. It is essential that you keep the armhole exactly the same as piece D and do not shave anything off this or your sleeves won't fit.

Add the same amount of length to piece E & F (back vent & facing). On your back lining piece only you need to add 2cm to the centre back seam.



Trace off your amended piece C (front) and mark the facing piece (U) onto it. Mark 5/8" or 16mm seam allowance into the facing section and cut along this line. Discard the facing section. This is now your front lining piece. You will also need to add 5/8" or 16mm seam allowance to the side seam of the facing piece (U), you could trace it, stick some extra paper onto it or just remember to chalk it onto the fabric before cutting (don't forget though!).


Your pieces should now be:


Fashion fabric: Amended C

Amended D

Amended E

Original G, H, K, L1, L2, N, O, P

Amended U


Lining fabric - Newly created front piece

Amended D

Original J

Original K


Pattern Layout

You're on your own here; I'm sure you can work it out.


SEWING


Follow instructions provided for View C. When attaching pockets use pieces N in place of Q (they're a little larger).


ASSEMBLING THE BACK WITH BUTTON PLACKET VENT


follow instructions but do not fold under the seam allowance on the back vent. 

Stop here and go to next section


SEW THE SHOULDER & SIDE SEAMS (all views)

Follow the instructions for the shoulder seams, but do NOT sew the side seams. 


ASSEMBLING COLLAR & LAPEL FACING 

Before starting this section, take your back lining piece and sew the centre back seams together, create a 2cm pleat at the centre and sew a few stitched down, press. Now follow the instructions, but use this lining fabric in place of the back neck facing.


At the end of this section baste the side seams together and check for fit, I reduced 1cm of either side of the side seams at the waist and tapered up to the armhole to give the coat a little bit more shape. If you do make any changes to the fit here remember to replace them in the front and back lining pieces at the side seams too, but again make sure you don't alter the size of the armhole.. Once you're happy with the fit, sew this seam in the same way you did the shoulder seam including any topstitching. Then sew the side seams of the Lining.


ATTACH UNDER COLLAR TO JACKET (all views)

Follow instructions.


ATTACH TOP COLLAR & FACING TO JACKET

Following the instructions using your facing/lining/collar piece, but STOP before topstitching.


ASSEMBLING POCKET SLEEVE (view C)

follow instructions


ASSEMBLING POCKET SLEEVES (all views

Follow these instructions to create the sleeve lining with pieces J and K and then sew the sleeve lining to the Lining.


I attached the sleeve lining hem to the sleeve fabric using the method here but didn't do the same for the coat hem.

https://closetcasepatterns.com/clare-sewalong-bagging-a-coat-lining/



Once the sleeve lining was installed, and the coat was turned out (or birthed). I hand stitched the back vents in place using a catch stitch. You need to create a pleat at the top of the vent to incorporate the 2cm you added on for ease, hand stitch this in place.


Hand-stitched the Lining to the vent, removing any excess lining fabric where needed.



I then pressed my coat hem and catch stitched it in place.


Then pressed the lining fabric under to match the coat hem.



I then moved the turned under lining hem up a little so that it just covered the catch stitching on the hem and hand-stitched in place. This creates an ease pleat, so you get ease of movement, but can also be sure that the Lining won't show below the hem.


Once all of this was complete I then did all the topstitching of the collar and facing.


Back to the instructions for the dreaded buttonholes.


Good luck, I'd love to know if anyone gives this a go.


Alex





















386 views

©2018 by Alex Judge Sews. Proudly created with Wix.com